1ton Cab & chassis build

kitimatdude · August 27th, 2008, 12:02 AM

Well I slept on it and I decided the front would be livable as is. I have plenty of adjustability with the front hangers. Time to tack it up, and pull it off.

Marked for cutting and then cut:

and the other side:

If you get lazy fitting up parts, you better figure out how to fill up gaps:

and weld

etc

and ta dah!

other side

weld out the rest

a shot of primer makes it look great!

Just to prove I have a sense of humor I welded this on the bottom:

back in position:

a shot of contrasting paint

holes marked

and drilled

and bolted

I'm done with the front for now. on to the rear!

I set it up at what I guess is ride height. I drew a soapstone arc where the 44" will be and then a second line approx 6" uptravel. I moved the axle forward to 104.5" wheelbase this will give me a 4' box with 1.5" gap to the cab. I have a line on a 4X10' piece of alum checker plate. that would make a sweet box.

This bracket is from Kert

Thats all for today, I had fun.

Mr. Pickle · August 27th, 2008, 04:54 PM

Look at that old bumper, no wonder the thing weighed 7500lbs.....

__________________
1987 Chevy Blazer Specs
My project needs a name

kitimatdude · August 27th, 2008, 09:12 PM

Yeah, I built the old rig like a sledge hammer. it is WAY overbuilt. The new bumper is still heavier than I want, but oh well. I'm not sure what I am going to do with the ends. I'll figure it out when the bodywork goes on. I did a lot of looking measuring and thinking and not too much working today. on the last pic you can see the soapstone line behind the spring. I cut the frame off 2" past that. no more rust holes. I found some 2X8" box beam that used to be a house trailer frame. I'm probably going to use it as a rear bumper. its fairly thing about 1/8" wall. I cut it to 72" same as the front and wire brushed and primed it. I also wire brushed and primed the outside of the drivers side of the frame, and then primed it. I tacked the rear spring front mounts to the frame to keep them from moving around. I'm trying to figure out what I want to do for rear shackles. I could just weld or bolt on a [ shaped piece and use a normal shackle or I could weld/bolt a bushing on and use flat plates like the front. I'd like to go with the flat plate ones because I can change the length easily enough. I looked around my yard and didn't find anything suitable. I could always just weld/bolt a chevy shackle to the frame I suppose...
ok a couple pics...

**Cricket** · August 27th, 2008, 10:04 PM

Cool!

__________________

kitimatdude · August 28th, 2008, 09:33 PM

Well, I decided I liked the flat plate shackle idea. I took a set of used but ok shackles and welded a piece of 3X4X1/4" to them(weld fast throw in a bucket of water). I measured carefully and found I was off by a tiny bit on the front spring mount. I cut one loose and repositioned and tacked it. Then I cut the frame even further. I bolted the modified shackles to the frame ends and I liked it. I set the rectangle tube on top of them and tacked it in. I liked it so I welded it. I start my dayshifts tomorrow so little progress in the next few days.

kitimatdude · August 30th, 2008, 07:19 PM

I measured my pinion angle... It is at -5 degrees. that is pointing down by 5 degrees. That is thanks to my 57" ford springs with the offset center pin. I want it pointing up by about 8 degrees. That is about a 13 degree shim I need. Needless to say they do not make such a thing, as well they shouldn't . The biggest shim you should run is 8 degrees maximum. My case is a little special so I have an idea I'm going to try. I sat down and did a little trig and figured out what I needed. At 4.5" long my shim needs to be 1.085" thick tapering to a point. 1" is a lot... I made 2 pads 3X5X1" I marked them carefully and used a zipcut to cut it into 2 wedges. then I started cutting the other but got sidetracked. I'll finish it tomorrow. What I plan on doing is mounting 1 wedge below like normal and 1 above canceling the bottom one. I will have both held tight by the spring center pin bolt so they should not get spit out. Having the second one on top should let the ubolts and plates clamp squarely and securely. I think I saw something similar on a setup on Pirate.
No pictures today.

kitimatdude · August 31st, 2008, 11:31 PM

I installed 7" shackles in the rear, it looks good... But too tall. I leaned on a corner of the rear bumper and I was able to push it down 4-5". Very flexy. I got my shims finished and mostly installed. The angle went from -5 degrees to +7 degrees, just about perfect. it might change slightly when I get u-bolts that fit on it. as it sits now the rear is a little higher than the front the angle finder says 1 degree. I have a few pictures but they will have to wait as I cant post them from work.

kitimatdude · September 1st, 2008, 11:30 AM

lets see what I get done today...

**Cricket** · September 1st, 2008, 05:18 PM

Now to me that was really ingenious, you fab guys never cease to amaze me. Either that or I'm not very creative.

__________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Berry

I've never had a bad day in my life....

kitimatdude · September 2nd, 2008, 07:11 PM

Nothing much today welded out a few things. I was mostly working on my nodwell

YouTube - nod out thru the rocks.AVI

"YouTube - nod out thru the rocks.AVI"
The steering is bad and its old...

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
[Build in Progress] Operation: Green Seal	Cajun4x4	Build Ups	78	December 12th, 2009 03:13 PM
[Build in Progress] Project Torque Build	4x4 Mecca	Build Ups	11	August 27th, 2008 01:37 PM
[Completed Build] Blazen Off Road --- SKULLY build ----------->	Blazen Off Road	Build Ups	12	May 26th, 2008 04:51 PM
What have you always wanted to build, but haven't yet	cbbr	Other Rides	21	May 5th, 2008 05:30 PM
(Vehicle Related) Get to build a truck on someone elses pocket	1978Blazerk5	Hang Out	7	November 1st, 2007 08:34 PM