Tag Archives: Toyota

1986-1995 4″ IFS lift for Toyota Truck or 4-Runner

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By: MaXXis85

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This system is pretty straight forward on installation. If you have a mechanical background, the tools, and the will; anyone can complete this kit.

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Front disassembly:

Jack up the front of the vehicle and place on jack stands. I found that right under the body mount is a suitable location on the frame. Remove the front wheels form the hubs and you are ready to work. Remove shocks and front sway bar from the vehicle. Keep all hardware.

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Remove the eccentric cam bolts that hold the Lower Control Arm (LCA) to frame. The nuts are 7/8″ and the bolt heads are 15/16″. Once nuts are loosened do not completely remove nut. Leave on to hit out bolt from LCA bushing. After all 4 bolts are out, dislodge LCA’s form their mounting locations and let hang.

Next remove the one bolt that hold the front differential to front cross member. Keep bolt for re-use. Remove the 4 bolts that hold front cross member to the LCA mounting locations. After removal of the bolts it is necessary to cut the tab that held the cross member in its original location off. This is done for removal of front cross member. After the front cross member is out cut the rear tab too. This allows for clearance needed when lowering front differential.

Now its time to install the lift brackets. Each kit has its own design. Trailmaster kits have a 4 piece subframe and others such as Superlift has a 2 piece subframe. Regardless of which kit you have, install the sub frames in original LCA mounting locations. Attach with square washers and supplied hardware.

Do not tighten bolts at this time. Re attach stock front cross member if you have a Trailmaster kit. If not discard it because other kits have it built into subframe. Re attach LCA’s to their new locations in the subframe with stock eccentric cam bolts. After they are all loosely attached it is time to lower the front differential.

Before lowering the front differential, remove the dual cardan protector on the front driveshaft. It is located near the transfer case, and will have to be modified for re use. Next support the differential with a floor jack and unbolt at the 5 mounting locations.

There are 2 bolts on the driver side and 3 bolts on the passenger side. The passenger side is sort of hard to get to, but with a long extension, it is possible. With all bolts removed, it is time to lower the differential. Allow enough room to mount the supplied brackets to stock locations using the supplied hardware. Now mount the lowering brackets to the front differential with the original mounting hardware. Leave all hardware loose at this time. Now move back to the front cross member. You have one more bolt to secure the front differential to its new location. Place the stock bolt through the front cross member and front differential case. At this point all differential bolts should be installed and is lowered. If so, torque the hardware to its new specs as per install instructions to the particular kit in which you have. You can now add rear cross member if you have a Trailmaster. If not, it is part of the rear subframe on other kits. This adds support to the rear subframe assembly.

Now it is time for brake line relocation, or new brake lines; whichever you have. I will explain the relocation process; I assume you know how to change brake lines and how to bleed brakes. Remove factory clip that holds brake line to frame and retain for later use. Using a hacksaw notch bracket large enough to remove stock hard line. Put relocation bracket on with supplied hardware and reform line into its new location. Be VERY CAREFUL, it is easy to kink line. Once done to both side of the vehicle it is time to move to knuckle extensions/adapters.

Next remove outer tie rod ends from stock steering arms. Place out of the way, and then loosen the two bolts that hold the steering arm to the knuckle assembly. Once loosened remove the steering arm and discard, the new adapter has it built in. Remove cotter pin and castle nut on upper ball joint. Using a jack to support LCA assembly; use a ball joint separator and split upper ball joint from knuckle. Use supplied tapered sleeve in stock ball joint mounting hole in the knuckle. Place the knuckle adapter onto upper ball joint. Then place the stock knuckle to the underside of the knuckle adapter and place bolt through stock ball joint hole, and through knuckle adapter hole to secure it. Now place stock steering arm bolts through knuckle adapter into stock steering arm holes to complete adapter assembly.

Now tighten these bolts to recommended torque specs as per kit instructions. Place castle nut on upper ball joint and snug by hand. Place pressure on LCA assembly to keep ball joint from spinning and tighten to recommended torque specs, and replace cotter pin. Do the same to opposite side of truck. Re attach tie rod ends to knuckle adapter and use a c clamp to keep from turning while torquing to specs.

Go ahead and tighten all subframe bolts, and all other bolts on kit that were left loose to their recommended specs. Remove stock bump stops and attach them to provides spacers. Attach spacers to original bump stop locations with supplied hardware. Put sway bar drop brackets supplied with kit using stock bolts. Attach sway bar to bracket using supplied hardware.

Install new longer shocks on vehicle with stock hardware. Grind the guard removed earlier to add clearance for new driveshaft angle and reinstall.

That’s It, double check all bolts and if they are tight the front is complete.


Rear lift:

Rear is real simple, so not much detail will be given. Rear lift options include blocks, add a leave’s, and replacement springs. I assume you know how to do these methods, so I will explain brake relocation. Use provided bracket and relocate line similar to front. Remove factory clip and retain for later use. Using a hacksaw, notch bracket to remove stock hard line. Bolt new bracket with supplied hardware and reform rear line to its new location and secure with factory clip.

On some kits a rear proportion valve relocation bracket comes with it. If your kit doesn’t have one I recommend making one and installing it. This allows brakes to work at factory specs. Unbolt tube from axle and mount bracket to axle with stock hardware. Remount tube to bracket with supplied hardware.


This concludes lifting your Toyota pickup. Be safe and have fun.

Here is what it now looks like with q-78 tsls


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SAS Solid Axle Swap on an 86-95 Toyota pickup/4 Runner

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This thread is to show the basic things needed to convert the Independent Front Suspension (IFS) to Solid Front Axle (SFA) using a Toyota front axle year 79 – 85. Also known as a Solid Axle Swap (SAS). I hope this gets the point across to those who are interested in doing this swap. First thing you need is an Axle.

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By: MaXXis85

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Then it all has to be stripped down to the bare housing and remove all brackets that is un needed anymore. Then Weld on upper axle gusset if desired. Paint the housing to the desired color ( Rustoleum Black ).

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Tear apart the Toyota Locking Hubs and verify that all of the internals are properly working. Grease the hubs lightly ans repaint if desired.

Time to drive out all of the Wheel bearing races and drive in new ones. Using a brass drift makes this job alot easier. Install the 1.5″ Wheel spacers on at this time.

Re gear the differential and install locker or LSD of your choice.

Install the Third member back into the housing and put in the axle shafts, backing plates, knuckles, high steer arms, and spindles onto the housing too!

Put the wheel hub assemblies back onto the housing, the locking hubs, and the tie-rod. It is fully assembled and ready to go in the truck.

Ifs Removal is the next step. Remove Stock components and/or lift kit.

Remove all of the IFS mounting brackets with a torch and grind smooth.

After the frame tube holes have been cut install the frame tubes (holds upper shackle bolt) and then weld them in place.

Temporary install front hanger and verify shackle angle on springs. Adjust hanger location until you get the proper angle you want.

Weld in front spring hanger in verified location.

Place the front axle onto the front springs and install U bolts to secure the axle to the sprigs.

Remove old pitman arm and install Drag Link onto the new pitman arm and to the Passenger side High Steer arm. Be careful not to break a pitman arm puller.

Add longer brake lines, brake calipers, and put the tires on the truck. YOU are done with the front of the truck after you set the toe on the front axle. Place the toe up to 1/8″ toed in.

Weld in new Spring hangers and add rear leaf springs and shackles.

Add spring plates ans ubolts to secure the springs to the axle.

Weld on new shock tabs and install longer rear shocks.

Install longer brake lines, Bleed the brakes, and set the tires back on the truck and double check all hardware before driving.

Gear install can be done at the time of the swap or at a later date. But now your truck is ready to be wheeled if you have you front driveshaft bolted up and extended for the extra travel that you will gain. Hae fun with your new SFA truck.

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